Tag Archives: indigenous people

Torngat memories and memorials

Moravian band welcomes the Students on Ice ship to Labrador. Photo: Sue Novotny

Moravian band welcomes the Students on Ice ship to Labrador. Photo: Sue Novotny


WWF is part of a “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny is on board, and is sending blogs about the expedition.
Traditionally, ships visiting this part of Labrador would be met with an incongruous sight – a brass band dressed in traditional Inuit clothing. The bands are an artifact of Moravian missionaries who came to the region in the late 1700s. According to the staff of Torngat Mountains National Park, it’s been decades since these bands welcomed a ship. But today our zodiacs arrived at basecamp to trumpets, horns and trombones playing Moravian songs unchanged for over 100 years.
Torngat’s basecamp is home to researchers, park managers, bear guards and visitors. Paninnguaq, our WWF scholarship winner from Sisimiut,      Greenland, shared some of her highlights from basecamp:
“I loved that it looked like home. Mountainous, and the same vegetation. But [home doesn’t have] ice blocks on the shore. charI got to use an ice table for  lunch [fresh char and bannock, cooked by elders on the beach]. I loved that we went to a waterfall to get water for our bottles.  And to hear elders talk about how they were moved from their communities. It was very emotional. We really understood what it had been like.”
Few people get a chance to visit Canada’s northern parks, and I doubt many have been welcomed so warmly, by so many people. Even fewer have seen  what we’ve seen over the past few days.
We made a solemn visit to the remote village of Killiniq, left abandoned in 1978 by forced relocation of its residents.
We climbed a mountain that hadn’t been climbed in the memories of any of the elders we met, for a view of the landscape that hasn’t been seen for untold years. And as the brass band played the ship off, perhaps another first – a rainbow appeared, and at the end, a mountaintop inukshuk. A perfect way to say goodbye to Canada before sailing to Greenland.

The hidden life of the Arctic

A bowhead whale dives for krill off the floe edge. Photo: Clive Tesar / WWF

A bowhead whale dives for krill off the floe edge. Photo: Clive Tesar / WWF


Clive Tesar visited the sea ice edge near Pond Inlet, Nunavut, to capture images and videos of the diverse life on the fringe of the Last Ice Area.
Google Map of pond inlet, nunavut
The massive bulk of the bowhead whale floats in a crack in the ice, barely more than an arm’s length away. It lets out a long lingering breath, then slips away to its life beneath the ice. I’m left on the floe edge, where the ice meets the sea. I’m standing on metre-thick sea ice, about ten kilometres beyond the tip of Baffin Island in Canada’s Arctic. Once the whale has slipped away, the scenery looks like the Arctic pictured so often, a vast white waste, devoid of life. But moments such as this remind you that the life is there, all around you, if you look for it.
King eider in flight near Pond Inlet, Canada. Photo: Henry Harrison / WWF

King eider in flight near Pond Inlet, Canada. Photo: Henry Harrison / WWF


Sometimes it teems at the floe edge, the most productive part of the marine environment, thanks to nutrients melting out of the ice. Moments after the whale submerged, some thick-billed murres popped up from under the ice, looking vaguely affronted as they realized they had company, and scooted off across the water, murmuring to themselves. Another few minutes wait brought a pod of narwhals, their gentle sighs announcing their presence before their mottled backs were visible among the pack ice. We dangled an underwater microphone, and heard the eerie descant whistle of the bearded seal.
Narwhals off the sea ice edge near Pond Inlet, Canada. Photo: Henry Harrison / WWF

Narwhals off the sea ice edge near Pond Inlet, Canada. Photo: Henry Harrison / WWF


Walking across the land, the purple saxifrage was in flower in patches not covered by snow. An arctic hare fed amongst the flowers, apparently oblivious to the fact that his white fur afforded him scant camouflage on the greening tundra. Lemmings scampered off at our approach in a small river valley, though they should have been more concerned about the gyrfalcons nesting in a cleft in the cliffs above.
The arctic hare populations in the Arctic experience large swings from population boom to bust, and numbers of hare predators follow similar cycles. Photo: Clive Tesar / WWF

The arctic hare populations in the Arctic experience large swings from population boom to bust, and numbers of hare predators follow similar cycles. Photo: Clive Tesar / WWF


Further up the valley, piles of rocks encrusted with sod – these were the homes of Inuit for thousands of years, as they harvested the bounty of the floe edge. Bowhead skulls integrated into the structure of one sod house made a tangible symbol of the success of their continued relationship with the land and sea here.
I’m here to bring the life of the Arctic back with me, in photos, videos and stories, to help people worldwide appreciate that the Arctic is not an empty wasteland, but a place where life exists in cracks in the ice, in folds of tundra, in crevices in cliffs, and in the communities that grew up around the places where life was most abundant.

The Arctic by ship – what we learned about change

Orca, Tremblay Sound.© Pascale Otis / Students on Ice

Orca, Tremblay Sound.© Pascale Otis / Students on Ice


Arctic Tern I is a polar expedition vessel acquired by the Students on Ice Foundation in partnership with WWF to provide a safe, environmentally friendly, cost effective, and versatile platform for education, research and media projects in the Arctic. In summer 2013, Arctic Tern I headed to the eastern Canadian Arctic and on the first of a five-year mission to assess biodiversity in this important and fast-changing part of the world, and contribute to constructive and collaborative solutions for a sustainable future.
Polar sailors and scientists Grant Redvers and Pascale Otis share their experiences and photos from the journey, in the third of a four-part series (part 1 , part 2).
The past two summers have allowed us to learn a lot about how the Arctic is changing, both from our own observations and by talking with the locals in northern communities. For example…

Development is increasing

Just in the time we have been sailing in west Greenland and the eastern Canadian Arctic, we have seen a large increase in shipping associated with resource development (mining and oil and gas exploration).

Hunting is more difficult

Hunters spoke to us about changes in the migration timing and pathways of many species, including caribou, narwhal and polar bear.

Less sea ice, unpredictable weather

Both scientific and anecdotal evidence clearly shows a reduction in summer sea ice in the Arctic. Although it is difficult for us to see this trend from just a few seasons sailing, long term monitoring, and stories from elders show that this is a very real manifestation of climate change. Over the short term that we have observed, from season to season, sea ice cover and weather patterns have proved to be more erratic, and more difficult to predict.

More ship traffic

This year, about 30 small yachts tried to transit the Northwest Passage (compared to 2 in 2006)! Although reliable commercial shipping through the passage is still some time away in the Canadian Arctic, there has been a marked increase in commercial traffic through Russian waters in recent years. With such an increase in traffic issues like search and rescue, pollution control is of key concern.

New species are moving north

This year, we filmed orcas in the north predating on narwhal… something that had never been filmed before! Although this is thought to have occurred for a number of years, it is still a poorly understood species interaction that might be related to climate change and reducing sea ice, allowing orcas to extend their range. We have heard similar stories of Pacific salmon being caught in the eastern Canadian Arctic.

Arctic Bay, Nunavut

Arctic Bay, Nunavut. © Students on Ice / WWF-Canon


By Martin von Mirbach and Vicki Sahanatien, members of the Last Ice Area voyage
It took 24 hours to sail from Devon Island to Arctic Bay on northern Baffin Island. We crossed Lancaster Sound and entered Admiralty Inlet under good wind and sea conditions. Admiralty Inlet opens southeast off Lancaster Sound, separating the Borden and Brodeur Peninsulas. We sailed partway down the inlet before turning into Adams Sound and then into the perfect sheltered harbor of Arctic Bay.
Icebergs appeared and disappeared as we sailed but the star attraction of the crossing was an ice island – a large flat shelf of ice several kilometers square. We found out later from the ice observer on the Coast Guard ship Terry Fox that it was a fragment of the huge ice island that calved off the Peterman Glacier of northwestern Greenland in 2010.
Arctic Bay was our first community since leaving Grise Fiord a week ago. It was time to resupply with fuel, water and fresh meat, fish, fruit and vegetables. We also took this opportunity to meet people in the community to learn about the latest news.
We stopped by the Hamlet office and found that Clare Kines, the Economic Development Officer was at his office at the Heritage Centre. So off we trekked to find Claire and learn about Arctic Bay’s economy. Arctic Bay is a medium sized community, with about 800 people. It is a community in transition, since the Nanisivik mine shut down several years ago. Arctic Bay and Nanisivik were connected by Nunavut’s only road and by employment, recreational activities and family. Some of the skilled workers are still without local employment. The future? People look toward the proposed Mary River iron ore mine and potential opportunities that will arise.
Next, it was the offices of the Ikajutit Hunter and Trapper Organization (HTO), where we met Jack Willie the HTO office manager. Here we heard details of the successful bowhead whale hunt. Arctic Bay hunters brought in their bowhead in record time: 35 minutes from harpooning to towing the whale into shore. We had hoped to meet the hunt captain, Tommy Tatuapik but he was out of town. It was also narwhal hunting season. One of the hunters dropped by with two narwhal tusks for the HTO manager to measure and register. HTOs manage the community narwhal quota by allocating tags to the hunters. The narwhal hunt, like all quota limited hunts in Nunavut, is regulated by the Nunavut Wildlife Management Board and the responsible federal or territorial department.
Other encounters in the town were more informal. Each time our zodiac came ashore we were greeted by a band of children, who were curious about our boat and asked to be taken aboard. Two zodiac loads of kids came to the Arctic Tern and they were fascinated by the differences between a sailboat and the motor boats of Arctic Bay.

Ancient sandstone, oil futures, and odd sounds from the gearbox

Pointing across the bay, Christian Knudsen, a geologist working for the Danish geological survey, enthuses over the ancient sandstone cliffs. These cliffs, he says, date from Precambrian times. Christian is in Qaanaaq, part of a survey team looking at many aspects of Greenland’s geology, but right now, they’re focused on implications of that geology for oil and gas potential.
We’re in Qaanaaq for another day because the Tern’s gearbox has been behaving a little oddly. Grant, the captain, wants to be sure that the boat is up to the long crossing to Grise Fiord before venturing further out. He’s getting a second opinion from a local mechanic, Mads, who operates the town’s diesel-fired electricity plant.
West of here, a consortium of oil companies led by Shell is preparing to do some ‘research drilling’ that further assist in assessing the likelihood of oil and gas potential. These companies have all received claim blocks from the Greenland government, allowing them to explore for oil.
Although our trip is partly powered by oil products, and the town obviously relies on an oil product also for its light and heat, the prospect of drilling in these waters is alarming. Watching the constant procession of large icebergs drift by, it doesn’t take too much imagination to picture what might happen if one of them were to hit a drilling rig. And seeing the connection of the local people to these surroundings, the pride they take in continuing a viable hunting culture that stretches back over generations is a reminder of what stands to be harmed.
That doesn’t mean I’m opposed to what the geologists are doing. If we truly want to respect the interests of local people, we might wish them to conserve this area as far as possible, but we also believe that their decisions should be informed. That information includes what lies beneath the local rocks, as well as what lives within their waters.

The narwhal hunt

We had just stepped ashore in Qeqertat when the small boat approached the beach, dodging its way in between icebergs. Strapped across its bows was a traditional hunting kayak, with a harpoon and sealskin float attached. Trailing behind the three men in the boat was a narwhal, the fruit of the hunt.
We had come to Qeqertat, a small island community several kilometers from Qaanaaq in Northwest Greenland in our search for wildlife on the fringes of the Last Ice Area. We were told in Qaanaaq that narwhal were to be found in the area at this time of year. We were also warned off going further into the Fjord than Qeqertat, as people were worried that we would disrupt the hunt by our presence.
Clive Tesar of WWF and Nick Clark of Al Jazeera English
on the Last Ice Area and visiting Qeqertat:

On our way in yesterday, we scanned the waters, but saw no sign of the famous tusked whales. Now here in front of me was evidence that they not only inhabit the area, but also help support this community in pursuing a traditional lifestyle and economy.
Some of the whale was shared out immediately with the small cluster of people who ran down to the beach.  Other parts were cut and hung from platforms to dry. A final portion was packed up and set aside for transport to Qaanaaq, to be frozen and sold.
When people took a break from their chores, I took the opportunity to pass out some information on our trip, and on the last ice area in both Greenlandic and Danish. I also spoke with a couple of the local people who spoke English.  One of the women, Nina, read out parts of the information to the other people on the beach. She later told me that they would like to talk further to WWF about the information we had brought, but they would first like some time to absorb it. In the months and years to come, we certainly hope to speak more with the people of Qeqertat, and with the other people living on the fringes of the last ice area.

Visit to Savissivik

Students on Ice / WWF-Canon


After more than 24 hours Melville Bay, where the Arctic Tern was accompanied only by guillemots and icebergs, we started to see land in the morning. And in the afternoon we landed by Savissivik, a small community of 74 people on the edge of the Melville Bay. We anchored by the settlement and put the zodiac in the water, carrying Sascha and I to the village to talk with the local hunters and Tim and Thorsten to check out a potential salt marsh site.
Sascha and I went to the local Pillersuisoq, where groceries can be bought. We met a hunter from the community, who told us that they just recently had their first supplies of goods and that a second ship was to arrive in September. These supplies were to last them all winter and well into the summer next year.

Students on Ice / WWF


But Savissivik is a hunters’ community and most people here live on what they hunt themselves. Hides of polar bears were hanging outside to dry and seal blubber was let on the stones for the dogs. On a warm summer day the dogs looked anything but pleased with the long wait for snow and sea ice.
We were told that hunting of seal, narwhal and beluga whales as well as polar bear is the predominant activity. Quotas for hunting of many species are set by the Greenland Government, and the hunter explained that the season for hunting of polar bear is short – often the 18 bears harvested locally are taken within the first few months of the season. While the communities further south seemed to live off both hunting and fishery, there is no fishery here yet. Changes in climate may however lead to the introduction of Greenland Halibut fishery here too.
By the harbor we met another hunter, who told us about life in the settlement. He explained that there are currently 74 people living in the settlement. We saw a number of abandoned houses so this community must have been bigger not so many years ago. The hunter also explained how they would harvest Little Auks from the cliffs behind the settlement by waving nets in the air.
Two kids were playing with dogs outside a house. We asked them about their school, and they explained how the local school ends after the 7th grade. Children must then move to Qaanaaq for further schooling.
We met up with our hunter again, building a new kayak. He explained how everything was made from wood and skin, and how he tied the pieces together using string. This makes the kayak flexible and easy to repair during hunting.

Visit to Kullorsuaq

Students on Ice / WWF-Canon


Last night we arrived in a small bay where we found an anchorage protected from both wind and ice. But as there was a risk of the exit being blocked by huge icebergs, the captain decided to introduce the first anchor watches. This gave each of us an hour to sit on the deck of the boat and look at the ice and our anchor while thinking about the past days. We are all settling into a routine here onboard the Arctic Tern and the small quarters are starting to feel a bit like home.
This morning we all slept in after yesterday’s long sailing in bad weather with waves making the ship roll from one side to another. We are all tired – some from the 18 hours of sailing and watches out in the wind, others from the first encounter with sea sickness.
Getting up this morning we saw the sun beating from a clear sky. We went on shore for a short hike, looking for new salt marshes and climbing a little hill, which gave us a good view of the bay and the Arctic Tern. And Tim jumped in the water to become the first polar swimmer of this leg. I plan to join the club, but preferably from the beach in Siorapaluk – the northernmost settlement of Greenland.
We all decided to visit the community of Kullorsuaq this afternoon, Sascha and I to speak to the population there about their experience with climate change and the rest of the crew to have a walk around town. Kullorsuaq is a growing community, which had only 9 houses when our first contact in town, Mathias, was a young man. Mathias told us how the community today has approx. 500 inhabitants.
Mathias told us that he goes hunting for narwhal and beluga in Melville Bay. He travels there by boat, but uses his home made kayak and harpoon to hunt the whales the traditional way. He took us to his house on the top of the hill to show us how he could make his own kayak in only 24 hours and we explained to us that he makes arrows for the harpoons of both bones and recycled iron and aluminum, which he also sells to other hunters. We got an arrow that Mathias had carved from reindeer antlers and will give this to the crew of the Arctic Tern for safe sailings for the remainder of the Sailing to Siku voyage.
Mathias explained how hunting is decreasing in Kullorsuaq. In earlier days he was able to hunt for more narwhal and belugas, but since then the Greenland Government has introduced qoutas based on biological advice, reducing harvest of a number of mammals to sustainable levels. Instead he explained that more and more villagers were fishing for Greenland Halibut like we saw in Tasiusaq further south.
We asked for his advice on polar bears. This morning when we went on shore we brought a rifle to scare polar bears off, but Mathias explained that it was primarily in the winter that they saw polar bears close to the community. He said that most likely a polar bear would walk away rather than attack us. But knowing that we are entering polar bear habitat now we would rather be safe than sorry, bringing along a rifle when on shore.

Qeqertarsuaq, Greenland

Students on Ice / WWF-Canon


Being a little ahead of schedule, the crew takes the opportunity to make a few useful, but enjoyable, stops. Names like ‘Arfertuassuk’ or ‘Nugssuaq’ are unpronounceable at first but we have no choice, the map is full of them! So we become apprentices in Greenlandic. And believe me, it’s worth it. All crew members attempt to pronounce the same word, and we all say it differently!
Each stop we make reveals a different face of this incredible country: Qeqertarsuaq (formerly Godhavn) is primarily a landlocked harbour well south of Disko Island. Arriving at night, we’re struck by the tranquility of this place. The people live to the rhythm of humpback whales and icebergs coming from the Jakobhavn glacier and rejoining the sea.

Learning to keep bears and people safe

Some attendees at a recent international human-bear conflict workshop may have been wondering: “What is that girl  from the Netherlands doing here –  there are no brown-, black-, or polar bears or any other large predators to be found in that small, flat country?!”. That is correct, but WWF-Netherlands is involved in international projects focussing on a wide variety of species including large predators. In many instances  these programmes have to deal with human-wildlife conflicts which makes this a very important topic in our work.  Together with Geoff York from the WWF Global Arctic Programme I am working on a circumpolar strategy on how to deal with human-polar bear conflicts. We attended the human-bear conflict workshop to learn from practitioners  who have been working on human-bear (brown, black and polar) conflicts for years.
There were over 300 attendees from all over Canada and the US, and some from a bit further away; Japan, Finland, Slovakia and me from Holland. The main topics discussed during the workshops were on causes of human-bear conflicts, what can be done to prevent such incidents and how to communicate about bears and how to deal with them in a safe way. Additional information was given during demonstration sessions outside the workshop facility. There some ‘bear safe’ waste containers, bear traps, electric fences and other equipment were displayed. All these materials are being used to prevent conflicts between people and bears, and to enhance the coexistence between the two.
Human- bear conflicts are increasing in many areas as a result of increasing human populations and activity. In some areas the number of bears is increasing as well. Reduced bear habitat and increasing numbers of both people and bears increases the potential of contact between the two. Polar bears are forced to spend more time ashore in close proximity of people as a result of melting sea-ice, caused by climate change. Bears can pose a threat to people’s life, and damage property in search of food. In some areas where bears live in close proximity of people, management interventions are in place to prevent serious conflicts. Residents are informed about how to share their surroundings with bears in a safe way, such as by using ‘bear safe’ waste bins, carrying bear spray, and securing houses properly. In some cases bears are relocated to a more suitable area with less people.
In Russia, Canada and Alaska WWF assists the authorities who work closely with local communities to prevent and mitigate human-polar bear conflicts. The people are educated about conflict prevention, polar bears are chased out of villages and attractants such as walrus/whale carcasses are relocated far from towns. WWF can learn a lot from these and other programmes and implement successful measures elsewhere. Such as in Greenland, where an increase of human-polar bear conflicts has been reported and no measures have been taken yet to prevent this. The workshop was very helpful to Geoff and me and provided us with information about management options which we can implement in the WWF strategy on how to deal with human-polar bear conflicts in the Arctic.