Tag Archives: laptev sea

Solving the walrus mystery

From the field, Polar bears, ,

2013-08-26_walrus_tom-arnbom (Small)
A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew traveled to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition was sponsored by Canon.
I must say, we have really succeeded in our goal for the Laptev Canon-WWF Expedition: collecting DNA samples from walruses in this remote area. Now, we can work on settling a debate that’s over 50 years old – Where do the Laptev Sea walruses fit in the big story?
These big smelly creatures live in between the Atlantic and Pacific walrus populations, and they have access to open waters in the winter.  So the walruses living in the Laptev Sea might be a separate subspecies. Genetic analyses from old bones refer these guys to the Pacific population, but there are some uncertainties.

Our main goal on this voyage was to collect DNA samples from the Laptev walruses for analysis. After days of crawling carefully up to walrus herds, culminating in a five-hour, all night sampling marathon, we reached the magic number: 32 small samples of walrus hide. The walrus DNA samples are now in safe in a lab in Moscow, ready for analysis. We hope to have an answer early next year, through the collaboration of walrus scientists in many different countries.
Some interesting observations from the trip:

  • As a birder, I had an incredible trip, with more than 50 Arctic bird species. We found two breeding pairs of Sabine’s gull, and almost 20 species of waders.
  • Walruses everywhere! We may have observed almost 25 percent of the entire Laptev Sea walrus population in one single day.
  • Several interactions between polar bears and walruses, but nothing lethal.  Most of the bears were in good shape despite being on land for relatively long time. Our guess is that in this specific area, the polar bears can handle being stranded without sea ice while they have walruses to feed on.

 

Looking back on the Laptev Sea

From the field, Polar bears, ,

Reindeer, Laptev Sea coast, Russia. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Russia

Reindeer, Laptev Sea coast, Russia. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Russia


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew traveled to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition was sponsored by Canon.
Going into this trip, I fully expected to see maybe one or two polar bears, a few small groups of walrus, and likely some ringed and bearded seals. I was wrong on all counts. In the end we observed ten polar bears (7 individual adult bears and one sow with two cubs of this year), a couple thousand walrus, one ringed and no bearded seal, and no whales – but we did see musk oxen, reindeer, a stoat, and an even 50 bird species! We also sampled Arctic char the size of Pacific Salmon caught by local fishermen. A surprising abundance of life in a remote high arctic region that remains largely unpopulated and unused by people. The nearest village is a 15 hour boat ride and is home to the Dolgan people who look more to the land and the river for their sustenance, than the sea.
The old weather station we visited was shuttered 20 years ago and a few derelict hunting cabins dot the coast, many unused for even longer. It’s also a beautiful land and seascape. The tundra at this latitude is quite different from the polygon tundra of North America or Yakutia. Rolling hills dotted with wildflowers stretch out to low snow covered Mountains that run up the Taimyr peninsula, separating east from west. Many large and small lakes also dot the landscape and from the hilltops you can see for kilometers in all directions. Truly “big sky” country.
People however, are coming back into this area and not to just observe the weather or wildlife. As we flew up to Khatanga we made a stop in Igark, which has become a northern base for Russian Oil giant Rosneft. Rosneft is actively exploring the Laptev and Taimyr for potential oil and gas prospects- on and offshore. Shipping along the Northern Sea route, where the Taimyr remains a bottleneck for sea ice, has increased dramatically with the support of the world’s best fleet of icebreakers. More Russians are also coming north for sport hunting and adventure travel. We ran into both groups coming and going at the Khatanga airport.
While change is a part of the earth’s evolutionary history, the rapid loss of summer sea ice which is allowing much of this activity, along with higher than average temperatures onshore, are anything but natural. Industrial activity means this relatively pristine region is seeing increasing human disturbance and increased undersea noise. Both shipping and oil and gas activity also bring increased risks of accidents and potential oil spills. Having traveled the Russian Coast now from the Taimyr to Anadyr and the Alaska coast from Kaktovik to Nome, I can say first hand that no country is prepared for rapid search and rescue in the Arctic, and we simply lack the technology to deal with offshore oil spills in the Arctic.
As this trip has shown, we also lack fundamental biological data for much of the Arctic. What is present now? How do these ecosystems function? How might development affect the Arctic system? What can we do to mitigate the effects of development? Before we push too far ahead in development of resources, we really need to hit the pause button, invest in sound collaborative studies of the Arctic terrestrial and marine systems, and move forward with meaningful marine and terrestrial spatial planning that ultimately meets the needs of people and wildlife.  In the Arctic, in places like the Laptev Sea, we still have the chance to do things right, to learn from our mistakes elsewhere and apply the best precautionary practices as we face the opening of a new Arctic Sea.

Back to Khatanga

From the field

The crew eats dinner in a Dolgan chum in Khatanga, Russia.

The crew eats dinner in a Dolgan chum in Khatanga, Russia.


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew traveled to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition was sponsored by Canon.
We each had ten minutes of hot water, and it felt fantastic to finally have a shower. The boat docked in Khatanga around 8 PM and cleaning up was our first order of business. It would be the last night on the boat for the team as our Russian hosts busily arranged new flights and lodging for the team’s return.
As luck would have it, our last day in Khatanga is also the town’s birthday- 380 years old! After packing up our gear and dropping it at the airport, we have a couple of hours to take in the festivities. My favorite- the Dolgan chum. What would appear similar to a North American teepee, the chum was the original house for the Dolgan people and made of reindeer hide and long poles. The chum I visited was staffed by a two generations of ladies who were minding a cooking fire in the center and churning out seemingly endless quantities of traditional foods and hot tea.  I’ve never seen such a variety of fish preparations from smoked, to salted, to pickled, and even raw.  Little reindeer rounded out the nibbles. It was a great way to end our time in the Russian north.
We’ll spend one evening in the capital city of Krasnoyarsk and then take a longer flight back west to Moscow. After grabbing a quick shower at our hotel, we meet up at a traditional Siberian restaurant for a celebratory dinner of- you guessed it- reindeer and fish! Several toasts are made and good company shared as we enjoy our last night together. Conversations drift back to the expedition and the next phase of sample analysis. We are all quite keen to see what these new samples reveal but that will take some time and collaboration with partners leaving us free to only speculate as we talk into the late evening.
It’s been a great adventure to this still quite wild and remote part of Russia and I feel fortunate to have shared the experience.

Up all night with walruses

From the field,

Geoff York and Anatoly Kochev conduct walrus biopsies in the Arctic night. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon

Geoff York and Anatoly Kochev conduct walrus biopsies in the Arctic night. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew are traveling to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition is sponsored by Canon.
People in the North are generally laid back, prepared more than most for contingencies, and are used to living on a modified version of “island time”. Planes are often delayed or cancelled and travelling by land or sea is equally tenuous. Patience and flexibility are necessary.
The same is true for those that work in the north, including our crew. As we headed down to Tsvetkova Cape last night, it was unclear what our plan would be upon arrival. Would we set up camp and prepare for 4+ nights ashore? Or work from the boat for one night and two days and return with the vessel? Or plan C: stay up all night to obtain our observations and samples and then head back earlier than planned. With 24 hour daylight, clock time becomes somewhat irrelevant.

We snuggle in next to 1,000 new noisy friends.

Anatoly, Tom, and I gear up for a long evening. Plenty of layers for a cold misty night of sitting and kneeling on an even colder gravel beach, a thermos of strong coffee and all-important chocolate, just in case.  So far, we’ve found these walruses much easier to approach than similarly sized pacific walrus haul outs. We snuggle in next to around 1,000 new noisy friends.
Large males make up most of the walruses on the beach, with the largest and oldest in the middle and younger ones out towards the edge. A few females are scattered about, but most are near the shore with yearlings and new calves. There’s constant chatter and shifting of positions.
One unfortunate aspect of working this closely with walruses: haulouts double as latrines. Our outer clothing will never be the same.
We successfully collect an additional 18 samples, working as a team to biopsy, retrieve and clean the samples. Meanwhile, we’re constantly repelling curious walrus that come too close for comfort. At 0230 and with only one functional biopsy bolt left, we decide to call it a night. We arrive back at the boat for a very late “dinner” and a welcome change of clothing.
 

Oil, acid and the future of the Laptev

From the field,

The Laptev Sea at night. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon

The Laptev Sea at night. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew are traveling to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition is sponsored by Canon.
I am up well before the rest of the expedition members. During the night, fresh snow has fallen and the ground is almost white. I like these moments, when it is possible to just enjoy the surroundings. Who can complain, despite lack of showers, mobiles and internet – while I scan the horizon I can in my Canon 15x binocular see; 1 glacous gull, 3 snowy owls, 9 wild reindeer, 1 muskox, 1 Arctic fox and 30 walruses. Not bad before breakfast.
The lack of sea ice here and the quest for Arctic oil and gas means that exploration for resources has started in the Laptev Sea. Fossil fuels ought to be exchanged for renewables – now, not later. We do have the technology: solar, wind, wave, and especially energy efficiency. We all hear about climate change and the increase in CO2 , but climate change also brings ocean acidification, which  hampers the ability of marine creatures in the Arctic to build strong shells and bones. It will cost money to change energy systems, but future generations will thank us for doing it.
Thoughts from an environment in the north which is slowly turning into the red of autumn.
Tom
P.S. it is freezing cold to write in the open with an air temperature of 2 degrees.

Sleeping bears lie

From the field, Polar bears, ,

“Sleeping” polar bear waits for a walrus calf to come close. Photo: Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon

A “sleeping” polar bear waits for a walrus calf to come close. Photo: Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew are traveling to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition is sponsored by Canon.
We have been watching the walrus haulout for days, and so far two polar bears have passed by.  To collect genetic samples, we had to carefully sneak up on the haulout without frightening the herd. Now we have an opportunity to see how polar bears do it.
In larger walrus herds, bears may deliberately scare walruses into a stampede. Those in a hurry run over their weaker compatriots, and with little effort on the bear’s part, dinner is ready. But here on the spit, there are too few walruses to implement a strategy of mass chaos.
Today, another polar bear turned up and slowly approached the walruses, who bundled together. Young calves and mothers went straight into the water, while the large males barely moved. But they did keep an eye on the bear.
[youtube clip_id=”bCiu0isEbY8″]
The bear tried to get between the water edge and the walruses, but failed. Instead, it used another strategy:  laying down by the water below the walruses, and waiting for a small calf to come up on the beach. You could see that the bear was not sleeping, just pretending.
The walruses were wary. For an hour, none came close to the “sleeping” predator. The bear gave up and moved on, 100 metres away from the walruses. What happened in the end, we do not know.
We are now off to Cape Tsvetkova – the largest known walrus haulout on Taimyr:

View Larger Map

How do scientists study walrus?

From the field,

[youtube clip_id=”bDmeN5Cb8os”]
Walruses interact with each other on the shores of the Laptev Sea
Traditionally much of what we know about nature and wildlife came from classic natural history studies based on direct observation. Want to know walrus? Go live near or among them across seasons and for several years.
This is exactly what two of our expedition members, Misha and Anatoly, did for many years on Wrangell Island, far to the east of our current location. Spending countless hours observing, counting, and learning the behavior of another species.
Tom and I, while also trained observers, came from a different background – one that relies more on modern tools and technology. Replacing long field season with much shorter stints and using tools like satellite telemetry and genetics to untangle the many questions we have about how species live today and how they evolved over time. Both approaches are necessary to better understand the species we share the planet with and the broader ecosystems that support us all. Each by itself is limited in what questions it can answer.
On this expedition, we rely on both approaches, observational and analytical:

  • Counting individuals and estimating the age and sex composition of the herd
    Over time, this gives us an idea of population size and population health
  • Noting behaviors and response to surroundings
    For example, how do they interact with sea ice, or with predators like polar bears?
  • Biopsy samples of skin and fat about 1 inch in diameter
    A biopsy is basically a skin punch and can be taken from a distance and with minimal disturbance using a small crossbow. The bolt, as crossbow arrows are called, is fitted with a sterile biopsy punch surrounded by a rubber stopper to control depth and limit the impact. Walrus either do not respond or they quickly look around to see which neighbor may have tusked them- something they do to one another regularly! The bolts have a string attached and are retrieved by hand.

The genetic samples will let us know how the Laptev walrus are related to their relatives around the Arctic and finally answer the question of whether these are a distinct group, or subspecies, of walrus. The genetic samples will be sent to labs in Russia and an international partner for analysis and we should have new information by year-end.

The Laptev crew answers your questions!

From the field, Polar bears, ,

The Laptev Linkages crew. © Alexey Ebel

The Laptev Linkages crew. © Alexey Ebel


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew are traveling to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition is sponsored by Canon.
Today, the crew answers your questions.

Gillian asks: What’s the purpose of the expedition?

Tom, our walrus expert, explains:
[youtube clip_id=”zXQEQV9APzM”]

Joshua asks: What has your research revealed so far on the expedition? Anything that stands out?

Polar bear at a walrus haulout. © Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon

Polar bear at a walrus haulout. © Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon


We won’t know the answer to the genetic puzzle for a while, because we’ll need to send our samples to labs for processing. However, we are making some interesting observations. Geoff says: “We encountered around 400 walruses gathered on a sandspit – likely the largest number of walrus recorded at this site in many decades, possibly ever.”

Barbara asks: How cold is it there right now?

The Arctic does get above freezing in the summer, but August can already be quite cold. Expedition member Tatiana is from Murmansk, Russia – the largest city in the Arctic. Even she is finding it chilly: “Being from northern Murmansk, it seemed absurd to me to take real winter clothes for an August trip. But it seems that I’m the one who was absurd. My snowmobile gloves and hat aren’t enough – the temperature generally doesn’t reach 1C. But despite these minor annoyances, I am very pleased with the experience.”

Hazel asks: I often hear about the threat to their survival as the ice retreats more quickly every year. How serious is the problem, for both polar bears and walrus?

Tom says: Sea ice loss is a clear and present danger to all life that depends on ice. Both polar bear and walrus depend on the ice as a platform to rest and feed. They’re expected to reduce in numbers, and to be found in fewer areas in the future. The reduced ice also means an increase in human activities in the Arctic like shipping and oil and gas development, which threatens these species even further.

@skootzkadoodles asks: Are walruses as threatened by climate change as other seal populations?

Yes – walruses often rest on ice, but when ice is unavailable they must congregate in larger numbers on land. They quickly exhaust nearby food, and have to travel longer distances to feed – this can be stressful. In addition, a large group of walruses can panic and stampede if disturbed by a predator, and some can be crushed to death.

Donald asks: Can’t polar bears hunt from land? Not that I’m happy about shrinking ice sheets, but is it impossible for them to adapt?

2 kilograms
The amount of fat a polar bear eats each day

Tom says it all comes down to calories: “Polar bears are highly specialized carnivores and require a significant amount of calories from animal fat to thrive in the tough Arctic environment. Fat comes mainly in the form of seals, which depend on sea ice.
Individual bears do feed opportunistically on carcasses, vegetation, eggs, and fish, but there aren’t nearly enough calories in terrestrial fare to sustain polar bear populations in anything like present numbers.
We also have to remember that the current rate of change is unprecedented in the history of today’s mammals. While some populations are likely to adapt new strategies, like spending more time fasting onshore, it is unlikely that true evolutionary adaptations in feeding ecology or physiology would be possible.”
 

Jasmine: Are the walruses and polar bears in the Laptev safe from oil spills?

Tom says: Oil exploration is still low in the Laptev Sea. The most likely spill would come from a ship – as summer sea ice decreases in this area, we’re seeing a big increase in commercial shipping north of Russia, through what’s called the Northern Sea Route.

 Cameron and Karen ask: Are the walruses frightened if you get close?

Geoff says: “Walrus spook easily and can stampede into the water- the last thing we want to happen. When we took genetic samples this weekend, we were lucky – the winds were favorable, carrying our scent out to sea and away from the group, allowing us to eventually creep within 30 meters.
Watch a walrus stampede captured in 2009 (starts at 0:32):
[youtube clip_id=”IA-_QsCEZ0U”]

@buddhasloth asks: How do one become a researcher or an assistant on one of your expeditions?

On our Arctic expeditions, the researchers range from students working towards an advanced degree in Arctic field biology to established Arctic biologists. But even if you aren’t studying the Arctic, WWF-led trips to the region are available. Check out the trips offered by WWF’s office in the United States or contact your local office to learn more.

Getting face to face with walruses

From the field,

Walrus researchers prepare to collect genetic samples. © Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon

Walrus researchers prepare to collect genetic samples. © Alexey Ebel / WWF-Canon


A WWF-led research team, a Canon photographer, and crew are traveling to Siberia’s Arctic coast on the Laptev Sea, to help solve a scientific mystery. The Laptev Linkages expedition is sponsored by Canon.
Today, the crew collected genetic samples from walruses on the Laptev shore. These samples will help us understand if the Laptev’s walruses are genetically unique. Sampling a walrus requires skill, patience… and sneakiness. The crew describe the experience.

Geoff York:

Fifteen feet from us, a curious female walrus has come into the shallows with a few others right behind.

We sight around 75 walruses, and quickly drop anchor. The boat is a whirlwind of activity: crew preparing small boats, scientists gathering gear, and the photography crew packing their kits. I feel very fortunate to accompany Anatoly Kochnev on the first sampling effort. Many of my colleagues who study walruses would gladly trade places with me right now and Anatoly himself has been dreaming of these walruses for nearly 30 years. The two of us are dropped off a few kilometers down the spit and slowly make our way towards the herd. Walruses spook easily and can stampede into the water- the last thing we want to happen.  Winds are favorable and carry our scent out to sea and away from the haul out allowing us to eventually creep within 30 meters.
As we prepare our sampling gear (more on that in the next post), we keep an eye on the main herd.  We are sitting about a meter from the surf and on a sloping gravel berm that partially shields us from view. Anatoly dictates a final count along with the sex and age composition of the animals onshore.
Others swim near us and I finally tap Anatoly on the shoulder and say, “Should we sample her?” Fifteen feet from us, a curious female walrus has come into the shallows with a few others right behind. This becomes our sampling plan as group after group pays us a visit allowing us to take samples from where we sit. What a day!

Tatiana Baeva:

After landing on the beach, we walked very slowly, trying to blend with the landscape.  Anatoly and Geoff were able to take samples from seven of them. For those who do not know how we take samples, I will explain.
Scientists fire special little arrows from a crossbow, which grab a tiny piece of the animal’s fat. Then, using a special piece of string attached to the arrow, they pull the sample back in. The samples go in special containers and are frozen.
The walruses of the Laptev Sea were very docile patients of Dr. Kochnev – literally lined up to pass medical examinations.

Tom Arnbom:

Today, I’m assisting Anatoly in sampling DNA from these gigantic seals. Walruses are seals, but belong to a group of their own. You need patience to approach them. As soon one of them looks up at the suspicious crawling group, we stay put until all calms down again.
At ten metres distance we stop.
The smell from the “lovely” animals strikes my nose. I guess they smell more than we do, no shower for a week. But it depends on whose point of view you have.
One by one we collect the DNA samples. As a bird watcher, I had a conflict. Within a metre from me a flock of phalaropes, small Arctic waders, plunged down to feed. I could not reach for the camera, while my attention was needed 100% to get the arrow back from the walrus. A little bit later, it happens again, this time five Sabine’s gulls checked me out. It is a life-time bird for a twitcher. Once again, expedition priority goes first walrus, then polar bear and then the rest. Who can ask for more, walrus together with Sabine’s gull?
 
 

An incredible day for wildlife viewing

From the field, ,

Muskox, near Laptev Sea. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon

Muskox, near Laptev Sea. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon


I do not know where to start. Today, at more than 74.5 latitude, we have experienced more Arctic wildlife than most people do in a lifetime:

  • more than 600 walruses
  • five polar bears
  • three snowy owls
  • muskox
  • reindeer
  • stoat
  • siberian lemming
  • red-necked stint
  • thick-billed murre
  • snow bunting
  • arctic tern
  • pomarine and long-tailed skuas
  • and to our surprise, breeding Sabine’s Gull.

Walrus haulout, Laptev Sea. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon

Walrus haulout, Laptev Sea. © Tom Arnbom / WWF-Canon


On top of that we sampled DNA from polar bear, walrus and arctic wolf (the last from scat).
Tomorrow we will move 50 kilometer south to a sand spit with more than 400 walruses. We do not know how we can top this, but I guess something unexpected could still happen.
– Tom